AFV MODELLER 72 PDF

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I hope you may find some of these techniques interesting or even useful to you. Scan of Italeri ex-ESCI M48 instruction sheet showing single molding of twin road wheels, and injection molded styrene link-and-length tracks To make these single road wheel castings look more accurate, you had to create at least the illusion of a separation between the two wheels.

One technique was to file a groove down the middle of the circumference of the wheel. Another approach was to laboriously saw each road wheel completely in half.

I did a lot of work on the M48, including sawing in half a full set of road wheels. This really put the M48 on a back burner. I started to think about how I might use the lathe to simulate twin road wheels for the M The flange on the outside face of the collet limits the depth to which the collet can fit in the lathe. A core inside the collet limits the depth to which the Italeri road wheel can be inserted.

A cut-off tool was used to make a rectangular groove in the circumference of the wheel. The best I could reasonably achieve here was the illusion of two separate road wheels. Seeing these pictures, I realize I need to remove the rust from my lathe, with some steel wool and machine oil. Also, since posting these images on this page, I became aware of a source Model-Miniature. I have ordered two sets of each. On real tanks, the road wheels move up and down through some sort of pivot to adjust to variations in the terrain, but the wheels always remain aligned with each other, in the same plane.

On model kits of AFVs, sometimes the join between the hull and the road wheels is poorly engineered, resulting in wobbly-looking wheels.

I could rely on the torsion arms and road wheels to support the hull while the glue dried on the wheel-to-axle join, as long as the strips of Evergreen plastic corralled the road wheels, properly aligned with each other.

The rubber band applied gentle pressure to coax all of the road wheels down flat on to the jig. The Evergreen strips on the jig base aligned the road wheels in the same plane with each other. I became aware of just how thick the track links were on the real machine.

That way, I always had an overlapping splice of one or the other to strengthen the assembly. I anticipated that I had to leave enough play in the loop to allow for the next pieces I added to the track. However, I had to bunch them together at the tight turns around the drive sprockets and the return idlers. The proportions of the available Plastruct C-channel stock are not very close to the actual proportions of the real guide teeth, but close enough.

I cut these tiny bits by eye with a fresh No. View of bottom run of M48 track with guide teeth left off or trimmed to make installing completed track fit past road wheels.

Wheels will hide missing guide teeth. Dry fit of assembled tracks on tank model Dry fit of assembled tracks on tank. Tight fit at drive sprocket will happen during final gluing. I left off or trimmed as required the guide teeth that would be concealed inside the road wheels, but might otherwise impair installing the tracks onto the tank. Tracks painted and glossed, ready for drybrushing. On models like this, the boundaries between track and tire, and between the tire and wheel, are relatively easy to paint, particularly when the wheels can be mounted on toothpicks, and gently rotated between thumb and forefinger while applying tire-colored paint.

However, if the road wheels of a tank model are molded as part of the tracks, the challenge becomes how to paint the tires on the wheels.

However, I had to find a neat way to carefully delineate between the painted steel wheels and the rubber tires. I sprayed the wheels of this model with Humbrol No. See below: Punch-and-die setup for making round masks of Tamiya masking tape for wheels of AFV model.

Self-adhesive labels by Avery, for example come on an easy-release backing sheet, from which the labels are, surprisingly enough, easy to remove. Tamiya masking tape disks applied to green-painted wheels, prior to airbrushing the rubber color on the tires and tracks. Tracks painted and masks removed. Once all the disk masks were in place, I air-brushed the tires and tracks with Humbrol No. The disk masks protected the painted steel wheels, leaving a crisp border between paints.

A fresh No. As I built the model, repeatedly comparing it by eye with the drawings and photos, all looked OK. But once I uploaded the model photos to this website, the head-on view photo looked off. To me the front of the Trumpeter turret looks a little too short in height.

The gap between the bottom of the turret and the top of the hull looks a little too tall. See for yourself in the images above. Once I had spotted this apparent discrepancy, the damage was done. I know my nature: I will never look at this model again without immediately focusing on this major flaw.

You may very rightly be thinking "Please get a life! The risk with altering a finished model is that it is very challenging to hack and chop and glue and sand and repaint and touch up a delicate plastic model successfully.

Pieces get broken, fly off out of sight, get lost. New touch up paint sometimes never matches the old paint already on the model.

I decided I may as well risk ruining it trying to fix it. But this model was too off. So, with nervous fingers shaking a little, I began the surgery. During this step, the. Once the touch up paint was dry, I added streaks of the slightly darker paint wash to the new paint, to match the variety of shades applied originally.

This image also shows the towing cables and. Below is the new work compared with the old: Model as originally finished.

KISAH MEMANAH RAJAWALI PDF

AFV MODELLER N.72

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