Gull Even though the is not a sound equipped loco they allow for the upgrade as the firebox frontage unclips to reveal a 57mm speaker enclosure and grill, and the smaller dome has provision for an external volume control, both of which will be very handy. Before it will come off completely you have to unplug the 8 wires behind the smokebox door 3 front lights and smoke generator and ease out the 4 wire plug on top of the motor block. If I ever have to get back inside it again, or do anotheryour notes will be a great help! You have to do it gently as the wires for the cab and rear lights and 4-way ltb are not very long. There will still be some wiring connecting them which is the 4 wire harness connecting the circuit board to the motor block. Can someone who has done this before let me know the secret or point me at some dismantling instructions?
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I have finished the decoder install so I have done a write-up. To install a decoder, you have to disassemble the loco. I used the exploded parts diagram referenced in an earlier posting as a guide. The page numbers listed below reference that document. Remove the boiler front 17 and unplug the front lights and smoke generator wiring. The trick to finally remove the body from the chassis is to prise out the pieces 51 and 52 regulator arm pivots I think and ease out the regulator rods labelled S and T on page 4.
Now the combined cab and boiler should lift off. There will still be some wiring connecting them which is the 4 wire harness connecting the circuit board to the motor block. Unplug either end of that cable and you should be able to separate the cab and boiler from the chassis. Beware that the cab weight may fall out at this point! Now you can separate the cab from the boiler. The trick here is to ease the cab sides apart slightly or squeeze the boiler surround to release a notch in the cab surround, see pictures below.
There is a 5 strand cable for the rear lights, cab light and multi-function socket, connecting the cab to the circuit board inside the boiler, and a 4 strand cable for the 4 way switch. There are some more screws under the boiler to release the boiler from the black footplate and release the weight inside the boiler. That weight is heavy, do not let it fall! You can then unplug the 5 strand cable and 4 way switch cable from the circuit board and separate the cab from the boiler.
I removed the circuit board, see picture below. I did reuse the 8 pins and the end of the circuit and the 5 pin socket by cutting them out of the board, shown on the picture below. This was so I could leave all the lighting and smoke generator wiring in place.
I installed a 57mm circular 8 ohm speaker behind the firebox speaker grill provided. I fitted a Massoth firebox glow LED light fitting behind the hole left by the 4 way switch which was no longer required. I used the lighting and function cables provided with the Massoth L and soldered the ends of those to the bits of circuit board I had recovered from the main board. I also fitted a Massoth volume control under the steam dome, held in place with black tack.
The rear lights, multi-function socket and cab light were connected to the decoder light socket, with the multi-function socket using the front light connection. The front lights were connected to function output A4 set by function key 0 forward only , the smoke generator to function output A1 function key 7 , and firebox light to A3 function key 4. The default voltage output is full track voltage so it is very important to reduce this 5v value 5 in the decoder settings before you use the lights or smoke generator!
You need to place the weights in position otherwise the chassis tips up without them. I sawed off the driver figure after this picture, it was impossible to remove otherwise. Reassemble the loco in the reverse of the instructions above. I secured the decoder to the boiler weight using the 2 sided padded tape provided with the LS and then slid the weight into the boiler and secured with a screw.
In terms of decoder settings I did not have to change much from the default basic settings apart from the voltage for the lighting and function outputs. This model definitely needs back EMF or PI Load Control as Massoth call it especially if you try and start the loco on an R1 curve, due to the friction on the four axles. The default PI Load Control settings seem to be okay and give a smooth if slow start from standstill. For lighting I used standard F0 for directional light, which also switches on the cab light and multi-function socket power forward only.
I set F4 for the firebox light which I also used for coal shovelling sound, see below. The Massoth LS sound was of a basic steam loco dampflok.
The sounds provided in slots are listed below and I have shown the function keys I have assigned them to.
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